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Wednesday, January 16, 2013

Day 9–Middleton Place, Charleston, SC, Drayton Hall- Self Guided Walk

We were undecided where to go today, either Magnolia Plantation or Middleton Place and decided on the latter.

 

History

First settled in the late 17th century with its main family residence constructed in 1705, Middleton Place was acquired through marriage by Henry Middleton in 1741 and for a century and a quarter was the family seat of four generations of Middletons who played important roles in American history. Today a National Historic Landmark, it has miraculously remained under the same family stewardship for some 320 years. Henry Middleton was the second president of the First Continental Congress and his son Arthur, a passionate revolutionary, was a signer of the Declaration of Independence.

Arthur’s son, a second Henry, was Governor of South Carolina and Minister Plenipotentiary to Russia, and his son Williams, an ardent secessionist, signed the Ordinance of Secession. Middleton Place encompasses America’s oldest landscaped gardens that the Garden Club of America has called “the most important and most interesting garden in America,” a house museum with extraordinary family furniture, silver, porcelain, rare books and portraits (by Theus, West and Sully) all returned by descendants of the first Middletons, and the rejuvenated 18th and 19th -century plantation stableyards interpreting the activities of enslaved Africans.

 

Four Generations of Middletons

Edward Middleton emigrated from England to Barbados and from there to South Carolina in 1678, eight years after the founding of Charleston. Receiving large grants of land on Goose Creek, not far from the colonial capital, he settled a plantation he named The Oaks, and served as Lords Proprietors deputy and assistant Justice. Dying in 1685; his estate then passed to his son, Arthur, who also was active in public life and became president of the convention that, in 1719, overthrew the Lords Proprietors. This Arthur Middleton had three sons of whom his middle son, Henry, in 1741 married Mary, daughter and heiress of John Williams, a wealthy landowner, Justice of the Peace and member of the Assembly. Mary Williams’s dowry included the house and lands that became known as Middleton Place, owned successively by four generations of Middletons from 1741 through the Civil War.

 

With another beautiful day upon us we decided that touring the gardens would be a perfect way to spend the day.

The Gardens at Middleton Place

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Middleton Place is a National Historic Landmark and home to America’s Oldest Landscaped Gardens. The Garden Club of America has called the 65 acres “the most important and most interesting garden in America”. Centuries-old camellias bloom in the winter months and azaleas blaze on the hillside above the Rice Mill Pond in the spring. In summer, kalmia, magnolias, crepe myrtles and roses accent a landscape magnificent throughout the year. The Gardens have been planned so that there is something blooming at Middleton Place year-round.

Our first stop was the reflecting pool at the entrance to the gardens. We were told that two white swans are usually there to greet guests but they were at the other end being fed bread by some kids.

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As we walked along the garden paths we were taken by the beautiful array of Camellia’s. There were numerous color combinations and blossoms.

The array was spectacular. We were told by our guide that the flowers had bloomed early due to the exceptionally warm weather. Normally the Camellia Walk is done in March. She  believes that because of the early blooming that many of the blossoms will be gone by March.

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The grounds at Middleton Place are beautifully maintained and just a joy to walk around and take in the views from the rolling hills and walkways.

Walking along the Cypress Lake Path  reminded us of Dead Lake in Florida. Very serene and ethereal appearing.

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There was the occasional sculpture in the gardens but we were told that many had been lost during hurricane Hugo and many not replaced. I guess the damage to the area was significant and costly. The Wood Nymph Statue was actually taken and buried by the salves to protect her from being destroyed during the Civil War  so is original to the property.

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When the gardens were first  planted they were all green. Flowers with color were not introduced until some time later.

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The day was hotter then it had been all week with the humidity climbing. It was the first time we were actually too warm!!!! At one point the wind picked up and we thought  it was going to rain but then it passed.

 

The Middleton Oak Tree is 85 feet tall with a circumference of over 37 feet and a limb spread of 145 feet. This live oak, designated a Constitution Tree in 1889, marked an Indian trail long before Englishmen came to the Low Country.

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All of the lakes, ponds and rice fields were dug by hand by the salves. Some were enormous and very deep. Cannot imagine the time and work involved.

 

 

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Oh yes! Can’t forget the stairs – lot and lots of stairs everywhere!!!!!

Below are just three of the many stairs we climbed throughout the day. Foolishly thought we were in flat land country!! LOL

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Milling was the important final step in rice processing so Middleton built his own small Rice Mill. The horizontal underwater turbine at the Rice Mill turned a horizontal spoked wheel from which a belt moved through two holes in the west wall to power the mill.

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More beautiful scenery.

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The Middleton home. We opted out of touring the home (an extra $16.00 in addition to the  $50.00 to tour the grounds) because we have toured so many already.

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We had walked the grounds for four hours and still had more to see. We planned on covering every inch of the place accessible and we have.

Below are the ruins of the main house that were destroyed by both the Civil War and a huge earthquake.

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We walked past the carriage house, stable and small farm on the grounds.

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As we were walking down one of the paths we found this incredibly beautiful sight. The Camellia intertwined on the vine with moss. It didn’t look real and looked staged. But it was just the natural beauty of nature.

                                                                                    

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We spent  almost five hours walking around Middleton Place  and really enjoyed ourselves.

Yesterday we hadn’t finished the grounds tour at Drayton Hall so we went back to check them out.  After spending  a great day in a spectacular place we walked the river walk and marsh walk. It reminded us of the many hikes we have taken in New England – very serene and quiet, but lovely.

I didn’t mention this before,  but Drayton Hall survived the the Civil War because when the  Union troops were passing through, Drayton  Hall had quarantine flags around the property  re: smallpox. Historians are not sure if the quarantine was real or fake but it worked and Drayton Hall was saved from destruction.

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Back at the CG we settled in for the evening enjoying the good weather sitting outside until it got dark and  enjoying a fresh cup of coffee. Not sure what tomorrow will bring – will make that decision when we get up.

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